Cycle Touring Stories
Play-by-Play of tackling Swiss mountain passes, gliding Italian lakes, exploring Slovenian Country. Ending in Croatia
11 day cycle tour around Europe. Three birds with one stone. One, Needed a holiday with the missus, she’d always wanted to go to Switzerland. Two, really wanted to do a big cycling trip after graduating university and soon-to-be embarking on a new career. Three, my mate was travelling europe and wanted to meet up in Croatia. Flew to Interlaken with the wife and took the bike along with me. The challenge: have a great holiday with the other half, cycle to Croatia within 12 days in good enough time to have a good catch up with and old pal with enough days to relax.
Day 1, Switzerland (60km): Habkern -> Interlaken -> Spiez -> Kandersteg -> Goppenstein -> Gampel
Habkern village in the countryside hills a few km north of Interlaken, 1000m above sea level. The ride down to Interlaken is very fun and winding. Picking up speeds where you feel like you’re flying, carefully navigating sharp turns. Whizzing through the hilly forrest roads down into the lovely Interlaken town. After 4 days in holidaying with Grace, stop for a farewell coffee say our goodbyes and off I pop.
Interlaken to Spiez along Lake Thun. Glistening blue scenary riding along this stunning lake. The road is a bit busy, although there are smooth cycle paths, it’s as close to the lake as you might like. Easy enough, up to Spiez.
Heading south away from the Lake towards Kandersteg. Starts off as a green valley road. Quite roads, agricultural area. Further along you’re passing through these little rustic swiss towns with their pointy bright homes perched at the foot of emerald hills riding across rickity wooden bridges across whooshing streams.
Closer to Kandersteg, road gets very steep and bendy. Becomes busier as cars are looking to make their way through the mountains. Had to get off the bike and push for a bit. Young couple in a camper van pull up “need a ride?”. Sweat mega dripping and a tired out of breath face “no…(pants)…(pants)..thanks”. They ride off, that would be cheating.
Feels very high up, head to the mountain tunnel and board a freight train with all these other cars to get through. I’m the only one on a bike and only one in the carriage at the front. 15 minute travel through darkness and grinding eerie noises.
Back into bliss! Goppenstein. Get off the train and enjoy a whizzing flight all downhill to gampel. Pretty tired, around 6pm now, stop for a pizza sitting outside of a nice restaurant with a beer. Find a campsite nearby, head there with leftover pizza saved and pitch up for the night. Foot of the hills, other campers in their vans but not too busy. Head down in my little one-manner. Very quite, birds singing, sleep.
Day 2 Switzerland/Italy (86km): Gampel -> Brig -> Simplon Pass -> Domodossola
Wake up 6:30am, very wet day. Sprits high nontheless. Pack-up. It’s the worst trying to get that sleeping bag back in its sachel. Eat leftover pizza. Ride to supermarket 5 minutes back on the road to stock up, It’s always bread, fruit, nuts and canned fish.
Ride to Brig is flat, you’ve still got some nice scenery but it’s more suburban and industrial now.
Arrive at Brig after an hour or so. Stop under a tree, shelter from the rain and eat some bread and nuts. Carry on after 20 mins or so.
Here it is…the big climb up towards Simplon pass!
Rain becomes showers, taking shelter underneath some highway bridges taking a 5 minute breather. Out of the ubran and into the suburban, breaking under bus shelters. Rain stops as you are heading onto the mountain road. Soon becomes steap though. Stop to eat bread by the side of the road in the hope that that will sort my legs out, it doesn’t really.
So foggy I can’t see in front of me and can’t see high I’ve climbed so far. Dripping wet pecking my head driving me mad and almost teary eyed. Sweat blends with the rain on my face.so wet rainy and miserable. Exhausting.
Heading up to Simplon Pass, one of the highest mountain passes in Europe. Have no idea how long is left, dreaming of putting the legs up to rest and finding a nice spot for a coffee.
It feels never ending, it feels like hell. Stopping from time to time on what little shelter I can find. Checking bus timetables to see how long I’ve got left. Right so Simplon is 7 bus stops away…what feels like a lifetime of cycling up…right so Simplon is now 6 bus stops away. Torturous.
Feels like I’m getting out of the forresty hills now and further up into the Rocky Mountains, long straight steep road through organge tunnels, spirits lifting as it feels like I’m getting closer. One thing I never did was check the map, didn’t want the demoralising blow of having a long way to go still.
After 4–5 hours of non stop climbing and climbing. I’ve only gone and bloody done it, what a feeling! On top of the world. Get off the bike and have a walk around to take it all in.
There are only like 4 buildings at the top of here. I’ve heard of the famous Simplon Hospiz, most cyclists would spend the night here after the climb. I head there. A big half-way house in the clouds. Has the feel of centuries old hospital.
Enter and I’m in a big hall footsteps echoing, no sign of life. Desperate for that coffee! Hello? Hello? Peeping through doors. Here people speaking, whatever language it is. Creep open the door and pop my head through. It’s only a big round table in a kitchen with a load of what-look-like monks, all gathered around drinking tea and playing cards! Suprised to see me?
One guy takes to the duty of welcoming. Walks me down the halls into the other room. Explaining that this place is a type of monestary in the honour of the Saint Bernard. People up into the mountains during the winter time to conduct some kind of religious pilgramage. Shows me the photo’s, so snowy, looks like a hard trek. Talks a little of the dogs of St Bernard. Turns out those big dogs with the whisky barrels are named after this patron Saint that the Hospiz was built in honour with. Those big dogs that you would see all the time in cartoons saving people in the mountains and bringing them back to life with their whisky barrel round the neck!
Makes me some hearty sandwiches with big beef slices on, gives me some fruit, makes me a coffee, gives me some nutritious bars. Sends me on my way. Bless this man! I am elated.
The ride down from Simplon into Italy is absolutely incredible. Tears in my eyes due to the icy wind in my face, but partly due to the ecstatic feeling of flying down this mountain. Picking up some insane speeds and what a feeling. You could get all the way to Italy and to Domodossola, 40km, without peddling. Sounds crazy but that hell earlier was more than worth it for this adrenaline rush, hard work makes the rewards all the sweeter!
Glide into Domodossola enjoy, what feels like, the nicest glass of wine I’ve ever had as I sit outside soaking up the town and one of the most epic days of my life. Find a hotel this time (40 euros) just outside of town and decide to call it a night, after scranning my canned fish in the courtyard.
Day 3 Italy/Swizerland (80km): Domodossola -> Druogno -> Swiss Border -> Locarno -> Lugano
Up and at ’em about half 7am today. Quite and flat coming out of Domodossola. Soon enough though, it’s all uphill once more, seeing these tunnel roads through the hills…flashbacks from yesterday. Shrug it off though, I was told this route is 500m high not 2005m like yesterday. A breeze. If you’re not going up, you’re not going to be flying down, where is the fun in that?
Steady on, lovely green roads and plently to look at as your climbing out. Clouds starting to sprawl together as I enter Drougno after an hour or two of cycling. Felt good but long way to go. Coffee break.
Expecting an easy breazy ride downhill now. Weather has other plans…Showers…Thunder…Lightening. It’s getting that bad that riding through puddles that are splashing up to my thighs and soaking my whole legs. Warm water though funnily enough. Can barely see in front of me. It’s actually quite fun suprisingly! Lots of nervous laughs though. Good job there are no cars on the road.
Crash and a huge bolt of lightening in front of me, sweat blends with the rain. Off the road and under a terrace by this roadside bistro, hope they don’t mind me just standing under here for a while.
Dies down a little after 15 minutes so back on it. Borgnone, way. Incredible scenary on the way down to the Swiss border! Lots of clouds blanketing these lucious green hills. Like giant feathers tickling a brush of trees. Smooth, quite paved roads and good speeds.
Out of the hills and into the valleys. Whooshing through these colourful, interesting little towns. Awestruck and can’t believe my luck.
Soon feels like the funs over for a bit, tiredness sets in. Have to work hard once again to get good pace. Get’s a bit suburby-urban. Get me a coffee!
Locarno is a lovely town to be in, very clean and relaxed. Situated at the North of the huge Lake Maggiore. Back into civilisation, don’t hang around but enjoy the views as I have the much needed coffee pitstop.
Another big climb. Heading out of Locarno up to Rivera. You’ve just got to take your time, don’t look up and think about how long is left so much and relax, take it steady. Oh yeah, paid bloody 6 francs for the tinniest bottle of water to pit stop up here! Very nice views though, cycling with my back towards the rainbow.
It’s a nice glide down to Lugano too. You can pick up some really good speeds if you wanted to, but this was probably the busiest road of the day and it’s quite suburban up here for the most part…Drift into Lugano. Which is like a twin town to Locarno. Nice and clean, situated on a huge lake, this time it was lake Lugano.
After a glass of wine, decide to stay in a hostel tonight. Mainly because the hotels are too expensive. Pay for a shared dorm for 20 euros without any breakfast. Got my bread, nuts, fruit and canned fish after all. Rooms nice enough, spacious with some good air con. People hanging out on the terrace drinking, although they don’t sell alcohol as there is vulnerable people living there. A couple of Italian blokes on the terrace, chatting up some girls from Quebec, impossible to get a word in when those Italians are locked on their targets. One of the guys does stop his flirting though and pays me some attention for at least 2 minutes. Totally unimpressed by my trip, says I need to go to Bormio as it has the highest mountain pass in all of Europe, Passo dello Stelvio “You wouldn’t be able to do it though…I can do it”, carry’s on with his flirting. Have a glass of wine off them then hit the hey.
Day 4 Switzerland/Italy (105km): Lugano -> Managgio -> Riding Lake Como -> Gera Lario -> Sondrio
Beautiful clear day. Today would have been real smooth and easy, if not for the chaffing. Never goes 100% smooth, there is always some pain to deal with.
Ride out of Lugano heading through Cima, Menaggio way, is stunning. Uphill at first but easy to deal with, especially with the farefewll views of lake Lugano. Riding back into Italy, away from the lake it’s all downhill and quite roads. Lovely whizzy decent into Mennaggio, windy roads whilst getting hit with nice sceanry, peaceful roads.
Here we go again, another incredibly beautiful Lake, Como. Menaggio is situated at the mid point of the lake on the west side. It’s a holiday destination small town, has a more peaceful feel to it than Lugano and Locarno.
Stop for a cheeky coffee at the shores of the lake, with barely anyone around, sunbeds laid out ready for the incoming revellers.
After this nice break of soaking in the sun, scenary and a cheeky refuel, head north up Como. The best lake-side views so far. I thought I was lucky with lake Locarno and Managgiore, but this tops the lot.
It’s up and down but in a really good way. Your going up and up but then it’s an easy breazy ride down by the side of the lake bouncing through these colourful villages. Nice and easy up…sailing back down with the lake breeze.
There a lots of cycle specific roads, smooth as you like, taking you right to the edge of the water then round these lovely villages.
Bumped into a german middle aged couple, full spandex and spanking cycles. From Germany they are doing a circular of the whole lake. The old bloke laughs at my bike, it’s from the 90’s. Laugh all you like, you just take it easy on your little lake peddle.
Cylce up the north-west side of Como until I reach Gera Lario. Had so much fun sailing the roads along the waters around here! It was very sad to say goodbye to como.
East along the valley roads heading Sondrio way. Smooth roads all to yourself through the immense and colourful valley.
Road becomes very flat, you soon hit the suburbs though riding alongside a railway track. As you leave the valley views it gets a bit boring, it’s just head down and in the zone down to Sondrio. The horizon becomes a loop and there isn’t much to look at for the final hour or two, you can get a nice steady pace though.
Head into Sondrio which is just a bit bigger than Dommodossola. Clean and nicely set out with mid size apartment and commercial blocks. Find a spot where I can sit outside and soak up a glass of wine to finish the day. Doesn’t look like there are any campsites out of the city so will just take it easy and get a hotel for the night.
Shout out to Carlo the Don. Find a nice bar with good outdoor seating by the road. Italian local around 40 years old chatting to one of the local african migrants. Hands him some money, kisses him on the cheek then turns his attention to me, slim curly hair, sly smile with big teeth. Speaks good english. He buys me a wine or two and is impressed by my trip and story so far. He has the vibe of a hero of the town legs crossed very laid back as he smokes, everyone who walks past waves, smiles or shouts his name.
This is his hometown, “the most beautiful area in the whole of the world”. He works in the oil industry in Kazakstan, only returning a few weeks at a time, spends most of his time out there working. He can speak English, Italian, French and Russian. His wife calls him up on the phone, face time to check in. She’s from Kazakhstan and still lives out there, “everyone should mix…it’s a beautiful thing” he tells me later, tells me that the owner of the bar has a Brazlian wife. Looks like they are arguing in Russian, seems like the kind of man who gets in trouble for spending too much time in the pub! He gets me to say hello and shows me to her. It’s almost as if he’s saying “look it’s only a couple of drinks, I’ve made a new friend here, I can’t leave now”. Hangs up the phone, chat some more. Says he’s going to go home and practice his guitar, shows me to a hotel around the corner which his friend runs and gets me a good price. Say our goodbyes, gives me the ol’ Italian kiss on the cheek. Another great day done and dusted, sleep like a baby as always.
Day 5, Italy (75km): Sondrio -> Aprica -> Edolo -> Ponte Di Ligno
Have a bit of a lie in today, by accident. Up and at ’em at around 9:30am after stocking up on supplies. Takes a while to get out of Sondrio as it is urban, find a nice cycle route with no traffic heading through woodland and riverside. Another clear and crisp day. It’s nice enough riding away from the road like this, quickly realise that you are not making good tracks though as it’s hilly too much down and then straight back up again and windy.
Bump into another couple of cyclists who are heading in the other direction. They stop me and ask me about my trip, a local Italian couple early 20’s. They tell me I’ve got a hard day as the road up to Aprica is very steep. This actually gives me joy, I was worried I was coming away from the best mountain roads. Say goodbyes.
Back on the road as it feels like I’m not making good pace on this casual route. See a sign saying Bornio. The Italian lothario bloke from Lugano’s hostel, voice is ringing in my ears at this point “Bornio…the most beautiful place on earth…Simplon pass you say? Never heard of it…Passo Dello Stelvio is the hardest route…I bet you can’t do it”. It’s so tempting to take a detour…have a look at the map…ahhh I can’t do it. I think it will set me back two days. Slightly dejected I begin my ride up to Aprica.
It’s ok at first but the heat makes it more difficult as you get further up. Sweat dripping off the frame again. Get that knackered have to sit by the road and eat some bread and fruit to hopefully give more energy. Cars whooshing past, grinding my mind down with their awful mechanical noises. Bit busy towards the top. This was incredibly demoralising, so grateful I’m not doing the Stelvio mountain pass as even this one is very hard.
Finally, very close. There is a shop, buy a bottle of water. Ronan Keating, life is a rollercoaster playing on the radio which brings laughs. Spirits raised now.
Incredible feeling to but that incline to bed!
Aprica is an interesting place, at the top it’s just one long flat road with a few hotels dotted around. It’s a ski resort town, as we are well into spring here there is no snow left at the top and the place is desserted, save for a few motorcylists. Out of season ghost town.
Have a coffee at the top, sitting outside absorbing the day so far. Off we go again.
Very windy road down, picking up some right speeds but have to be careful on the sharp turns. Get caught up in the middle of a motorcycle troupe for a few minutes on the turns. Notice the guy behind me has a camera on his helmet. Laughing imagining seeing myself on the footage in the middle of this crew on my ol’ little cycle, flying down the mountain.
Breathtaking scenary of mountains as I glide into the bust of Edolo. Adrenaline pumping, heart racing, smile beaming. Stop for a coffee and celebrate the day so fat. Edolo is a nice town at the foot of a huge mountain region, large stream running through. Also on the side of a busy narrow A road, gets a lot of traffic as cars have to slow down to run through.
Head north of Edolo through the valley roads, sun starting to set. It’s eerily quite, barely any traffic as I’m riding through the shadows cast by the burstly hills around me. Ghostly vibes as I’m smoothing through these out of season ski towns.
Thinking of where I can pitch my tent by the road. Get a bit scared though as I would be in full sight from the road when pitching up. Chicken out of free camping tonight, decide to check out the next town.
Ponte Di Ligno is incredibly picturesque. Driving around looking for the best place to stop for a drink, taking the town in. Hardly anyone around. Looks like a great place to come for your holidays. Have a glass of wine at this Mo’s Tavern looking place, then take my drink outside. Getting funny looks of some tradesman in their paint covered overalls. Turns out further up the road is another mountain pass, have to stay the night here. It’s too good to pass up.
Feel like I’m spoiling myself a bit so book another hotel, just up the road on a cobbled alley in town. Head out to a resteraunt for food this time, get a nice pizza. Then back to the room as I fall asleep with the window open to the sound of the crashing stream running through this dreamscape.
Day 6, Italy (101km): Ponte Ligno -> Passo del Tonale -> Dimaro ->Madonna di Campiglio -> Ponte Arche
Begin cycling at 8am. It’s all uphill towards Ponte del Tonale, beautiful clear day. What an amazing way to start the day, all uphill from the beginning knowing full well the fun that’s going to come. Nice and steady, not long before the old sweat is smashing down on the frame of the bike.
Suprised at how easy it is now on these inclines. Road is quite winding, plenty of shade along the road too riding through the shadows of the trees. 1 hour and your at the top.
A very smooth 25km of sailing down the road to Dimaro. Quite at first then gets a little busy.
Be careful what you wish for! Turns out it’s another mountain pass up towards Madonna from Dimaro. Two in one day! You’ve just got to take it slow and steady, relax and not think of long you have left, not thinking about the climb. It’s very steep at first but surrounded by some stunning pine woodland. Very tough, found myself looking at the bus stop signs again trying to figure out how long I’ve got before I reach the top. Some points it, felt quicker like it would be quicker if I just got off the bike and walked. Very steady, energy low.
Madonna, is another ski resort town, on a grander scale than the ones seen previously, more built up and modern, you can imagine it bustling with young people partying during the ski seasons. Nice place to stop for a another coffee now all the climbing is done!
Coming out of Madonna, there is long tunnel to ride through, glowing orange. For a good 2–3km, then BOOM, you’re hit with this incredible light and scenery, feels like you are flying around it, I’m thinking that this has to be one of the best days I’ve done so far! So much flying.
You’ll never guess what!
Flying down the valley all the way to Ponte Arche, decide to stop for the day. Have a glass of wine and decide where I’m going to sleep. Find a nice place sit outside. Order my wine, feeling incredibly content basking in the great memories that were made today and the adventure of it all! Got to pay my wine, can’t find wallet…turn my bag inside out frantically…no cash…no wallet…1 euro in shrapel…sweating…panting…anxiety!
Give up and slump on the chair, sit there depressed thinking of what to do, can’t even pay for the wine! There a few big men here too who are familiar with the bar maid. Panicing…imaging these men squaring up to me, surrounding me when I say I can’t pay. Look like a dodgy homeless nomad scamming a free drink! Heaven turns hellish very quickly…devestation. It’s so funny that I was thinking this has been one of the greatest days of my life, quickly turned sour. You never get a totally easy day, there is always something to tackle.
Have to explain the situation on google translate on my phone. She’s cool with it to be fair. Smiles and says its ok. Head on the road towards Sarche, there is an abandoned building all boarded up by the side of the road. It’s getting dark quickly now, wait until no cars are on the road, then ram my bike through the grass and bushes so I’m out of sight. I use my phone to try to find a western union. It says one is around 150km near Varona! So it looks like I can’t get the missus to send and go for that option too. Despite all the dramas I’m lay in this bush, in the pitch black in this strange place in the bushes behind an abandoned building, a peace overcomes me as I gaze up to the night sky lay down waiting all these glowing fireflies float around me.
Day 7, Italy (140km): The Bushes -> Sarche -> Riva del Garda -> Bardolino -> Varona -> The Bushes
More on the story of losing money and bank cards (keep scrolling for if not interested)
Up at 5:30am packed up. Only thing keeping me going is my cigarettes! Realise I bloody left my tobacco somewhere, so go to the bench I sat at the night before. Not there! Turns out my baccy is in my bag.
Continue down the road, speak to a man washing the windows of the hotel. Tell him my banking situation, ask if I can perhaps get my wife to pay for a hotel room, then get a refund in cash. He tells me that that wouldn’t work and that the bank opens in town around 8:30, not waiting around so cycle 10km to Sarche. Lovely ride down there by the way, nice descent into town surrounded by these very sharp Wylie coyote hills, almost forget all my worries. Sat outside in the san on the floor of the bank, man says bank is closed today as its Saturday. Not having any luck, ask if my wife can send him money by a transfer and I don’t think he understands me, tells me to go to a police station in the opposite direction several km away, decide against that.
Go to the hotel nearby and ask if I can pay for a room and get a refund. Explain the situation to the woman a reception, what an incredible lady, she gives me a 50 euro note, writes down her bank details and tells me to pay her later! I refuse to leave until the money’s sent, my wife’s on the phone trying to pay, it’s so hard sending to an international bank account we can’t do it, need some special codes or something. After about 30 mins of standing there and her insisting that I can go and sort the money later, we finally manage to send her the money by PayPal. My hero!
…It would turn out that my online research was wrong…there was a western union easily accessible en route to Riva Del Garda…so would have been fine anyway. Good job I didn’t lose the phone too!
The road to Riva del Garda from Sarche is nothing special. Quite busy and big roads. Although these crazy knobbly hills, wiley cayote style and the change of scenary are enough to keep the mind occupied.
Approach Riva del garda, stop at a Lidl to stop up…very hungry. Can’t lock my bike as my keys were in my wallet too! In the shop I’m constantly looking outside to check on the bike, there is a really shady character checking all the bikes so need to hurry up. He’s just outside around all the bikes locked up stalking them and studying them very closely. Not in a way that suggests he’s just a cycle enthusiast. Playing a dangerous game here. Rush out one got all I need after panicing around the isles. Sigh relief as I get back to my bike. Actually talk to him about football for 5 minutes once done and outside, African bloke (can’t remember where from) migrated here a few years ago. Definitely was looking at a bike to nick though. Ah well, may have been desperate. Not everyone is privileged enough in life to do a trip like this, just for shits and giggles.
Get to Riva del garda, stunning little town, holiday destination on Lake Garda!
Have a nice coffee taking in the scenery, stunning views of the lake and surrounding hills. Very nice relaxing atmosphere in this town, lots of tourists. sunbathing on the beaches of the lake. Can hear the english language being spoken in peoples conversations for the first time in a long while.
Cycle south on the east side of the lake, very flat, Mount Baldo to my right can pick up some good steady speeds, continuous peddling in high gear. With great views. Great views, but not as good as Lake Como, the roads are busier with holidaymakers.
Get bored of the lake and realise I’m losing time by taking the scenic route, head east away from the lake, taking the country roads, through the vineyards and farmland. Change of scenery, quite roads. Soon get’s a bit busy though as I jump onto an A road and head Varona way.
Varona, lovely historic city, lots of culture and historic sites. Lots of very good looking and well dressed couples holding hands, seems like an affluent place. Head for a class of wine sat outside on the side of a cobbled narrow road.
I feel very strange being, here a bit out of place. Back into civilisation, everyone is very handsome and clean. I’m getting funny looks now, rather than looks and words of encouragement recieved out in the country.
Decide against spending the night in Varnoa, stayed in too many hotels on this trip I think to myself, eager for camping out again.
Even after last night believe it or not. Head a few miles east out of Varona, roads quite busy nothing special, urban. Coming out of the city it get’s quite, using a big A road. Not good cycling anymore feel like I don’t belong here, out of place and shouldn’t be cycling on these roads.
See a private fishing lake to my right so carry my bike over the barriers and rush to the side of the large lake.
Someone’s property on the other side, can see people, a family out walking around, hoping they don’t see me and I don’t get woken up by the police. Getting dark now, decide against setting the tent up so just layer up and put more cloths on and roll out the sleeping bag by the water. Eat some canned fish. Very relaxing, but hard to sleep right above my head on one of the branches on the trees above me is a peacock and it won’t stop squawking! All night, I must wake up 7–8 times.
Day 8, Italy (129km): Bushes outside Varona -> Vicenza -> Treviso ->
Nothing to really write home about here. It may have been better to cycle to Venice from these bushes, could easily have done it by the end of the day. But it’s not that kind of holiday for me, was wishing I was back in the mountains.
Very flat roads, not too busy but not much to look at mix between urban and suburban areas. Stop for a coffee at Vicenza, everyone is giving me funny looks, probably look a bit homeless right now. Don’t get the friendliest of vibes. Do a bit of western union business.
More of the same along the road to Treviso, not much to look at. Only bonus is that it’s flat and you can really get into the zone and travel at good speeds, mixture of A roads and country roads.
To be fair, Treviso is a really beautiful place. It really is impressive how much beauty Italy has to offer. The town walls are surrounded by a moat and there are some incredible roads riding through some beautiful suburbs passing through some stunning architecture along the canal heading out of town. Good urban cycling round here.
Booked a hotel in Roncade on the outskirts of Treviso, on the edge of a small village. This was the best part of the day, finally having a bed after 2 nights in the bushes! Stunning hotel with a huge courtyard and garden with a Vineyard enclosed on the grounds too. Bought a glass of wine from the hotel and ate a hole cooked chicken I got from the supermarket earlier. Blissful nights sleep!
Day 9, Italy (110km): Roncade -> Marina Julia (through San Donna di Pave)
Up very early at 6:30am, have a lovely continental breakfast, enjoy a coffee in the stunning courtyard, lots of stone benches around, renaissance style statues and peacocks dotted around the garden.
Make it my mission to only take country roads today. The roads are entirely flat all the way to Marina Julia, cutting through farmland and vineyards. You can Get a real good pace going in nearly the highest gear and getting into the zone, air is incredible fresh and there are sweet scents.
The horizon is stuck on a loop though and it does get boring at times. Finally arrive at Maina Julia and very happy to see the clear blue sea for the first time, the fresh air bouncing off the Adriatic. Thinking, almost there, just beyond that water is Croatia soon I will hit my goal. Let the sea air hit my face feely as I contemplate what’s been and what’s left to do and enjoy the moment.
Looks like a family holiday destination like you’d find around the coast of Wales, very small area though only 3–4 bars/resteraunts and one huge campsite in town.
Gagging for some wine, I pay for my little patch of grass for the night to pitch my tent, to eager to get into town and have a drink I don’t bother pitching my tent and tell myself I’ll do it later. Ride towards the seaside excitedly. Feels incredible to have made it to the ocean.
There is a huge outdoor setting restaurant under a canopy on the sand by the sea, I perch there and order a beer. Get to talking to this Swedish couple in their mid 40’s, they’ve been travelling around for weeks in their pimped out VW camper van. They seem really tired and it seems like they can’t be bothered to talk to me, also it doesn’t seem like their relationship is doing very good, so it’s just a bit of a bummer talking to them.
Nice to have some human interaction non-the-less. Head back into the camp site, there is music blasting, they have a big outdoor bar area with a pool. Mainly children getting involved with the camp site workers acting as entertainers. lots of families here on holiday having a great time.
I have another beer, get to chatting to some 50 odd year old women. One tells me she left her horrible husband to come here, live out here, she works on the camp site as a cleaner, seems happy enough. Shelly and Deb their names were, they said the campsite is like one big contstruction zone at the minute at the whole town is a bit of a hole, people turn up and leave al the time because they are not happy with it. Deb says she came out here for the margaritas, sex, sea, but she’s only getting sea.
Time to call it a night quick time!
I’ve stayed out too late, it’s too dark now to pick my tent, so I just unroll the sleeping bag on my little patch and sleep there for the night. It’s easy enough to fall asleep after the long day and a couple of bevs. Many many bites though throughout the night, skin red and lumpy in the morning.
Day 10, Italy/Slovenia (114km): Marina Julia -> Trieste -> Kozin -> Pivka ->Postojna ->Cerknica
Lovely coastal road along the Adriatic. Coming out of Marina Julia is steady uphill which makes for some stunning views of the sea, Then a nice descent down to Trieste. This place is the busiest, hussle and buses of the entire trip. A busy metropolis, and port city. I head into the city to get a map of the area and decide on my next move over a coffee.
The original plan, was to get to the nearest big town/city of Croatia after passing through the Italian boarder, then just get a coach down to Dubrovnik to meet my friend who is flying in tomorrow.
It feels a bit sad coming towards the end of the trip. The roads over the course of the last two days were a bit disappointing and nothing special in terms of a challenge, maybe should have gone to Venice and cycled north up to to Trieste, maybe would have got bored of that though, seaside cycling quickly gets repetitive.
I therefore decide to take a detour through Solvenia, head north of Trieste into Solvenia, spend a night or two there and arrive at Zagreb in two days. Adding a bit more adventure to the trip.
Trieste is very hilly, steep, it’s a struggle coming out of it. Such a warm day too. Finally reach the border, scenery has changed too, it’s all very hilly a mix of gold, brown and green. Very smooth paved roads, practically zero traffic! Save for the odd freight truck. Proper countryside.
Stop for a coffee and stock at a supermarket in Kozina. Cycle to Pivka through country roads. The heat is unbearable, the roads are very narrow, fit one vehicle nice and well paved. It’s lucky that most of the road is covered by the shade of the trees.
Absolutely dripping in sweat in this hellish heat, not ideal for cycling. It gets too much and I have to sit on the floor and break several times on the road in the shade. Bugs crawling all around me. Even when I’m on the bike they are crawling on me, shouting at them telling them to F off. Feel like I’m in the armpit of the world.
Was really looking forward to stopping for a coffee in Pivka, but turns out it’s some village in the middle of nowhere with just a corner a shop. Not knowing much about Solvenia, I convince myself that it’s all like this, just tiny villages with nothing in them, thinking I’ve made an error here and I’m not going to make it to Dubrovnik in time.
Buy some water from the shop and sit outside on the gravel head hung low. Contine on the road, its cooled down now, more shade. Bigger roads. But very quiet still. Ride past some military museum. Turns out I wasn’t actually in Pivka before, there is life here after all, few restaurants and bars dotted about.
Continue along to Postojna, which is a busy large town. Stop at a plaza surrounded by 3–4 restaurants and hotels. Order a coffee, very handsome waiter lets me charge my phone. It’s nice and clean around here, different architecture than that of Swiss and northern italy, more block buildings rather than pointy ones. Poor first impressions of Slovenia have totally changed
Very good English. Coach load of Chinese people get off 20 of them to check into the hotel, after asking the waiter it turns out Slovenia is very famous for it’s caves, lots of people travel around to see them. Slovenia seems lie a very relaxed place, lots of people chatting in groups enjoying the weather and a few drinks. Everyone seems happy.
All uphill out of the town. Its not like the mountain passes, it seems like there is a whole lot of uphill in Slovenia without much downhill. Or when you do get bit of downhill, it doesn’t last very long before it’s up again, very up and down challenging roads. Stunning countryside though, incredibly green and clean.
Arrive at Cerknica as the sun is starting to set, feel like I wanted to cycle moree, but I risk not being able to find a place to sleep. Book a hotel as I drink a water at a bar, so close to getting a beer. Find a place that’s around the corner in some big 3 story detached home on a close knit street.
Ringing the doorbell, no-one answers half hour passes. Sitting on the street. Woman turns up, sorry sorry! Double booked the room, she says she has a friend who has a room for me down the road further out of town, she gets me to cycle and follow her in the car.
Closer to the farm, right near the church tower, I get shown to my room which is on the bottom floor with big glass patio doors. Chat to the woman who owns the place, tell her about my trip, she seems impressed and she gives me a beer. Maria is her name, she was very nice 50+ year old woman. I head back inside get ready to call it a night, before the sun totally sets I sit outside and there are lots of horses running around in the neighbouring land, incredible place to spend the night, you’ve got the view of the countryside ahead with nothing blocking the view and the horses galloping around you.
Day 11, Slovenia (70km): Cerknica -> Ribnica -> Kamp Kola (through winding country roads and hopping lots of rustic villages, snaking around the Slovenian Country)
Turkish coffee in the morning with Maria, great host. Then off we go, countryside roads, narrow and well paved. Empty roads as the sun slowly rises. Feels much cooler so cycling is a pleasure, don’t stop for around 35km. Farm roads turn into a bit suburb Stop for a coffee in Ribnica, lovely town with canal running through.
You really get the roads all to yourself out here! Barely any traffic at all. Next is village hopping through country roads, quite serene, picking up nice speeds on the declines, the climbs feel a lot easier today too. You ride up throughout the green hills, forrest areas and farms, then descend into these little villages with old fashioned pubs. Getting the freshest of air blowing in your face. Very clean, pristine, country with a mix bag of views to look at. Hills, woodland, green spaces. Bit like Emmerdale. Stopping for the odd coffee here and there. The roads are very smooth and well paved, hardly any traffic at all as you’re riding through the Slovenian country and farm land.
Towards the end of the day, some of the roads were incredibly steep and winding, look like strings of black liqueriuse when you are faced with them ahead.
Approaching the Croatian border now, find a spot which is right next to the kolpa, which acts as the border in the area. If I walk 2 minutes from here, I’m in croatia.
Set up the tent, chill by the Kolpa and have a beer feeling proud.
Day 11, Slovenia/Croatia (85km): Kamp Kopla -> Zagreb (Direct)
The final day! Didn’t take any photographs. It was very straightforward, knew I had 80 + km to do and wanted to get a coach upon arrival (although I have heard Zagreb is good for clubbing), wasn’t too bothered. Nice hills coming into Croatia, changed some money at a market close by. Nice hotels dotted around the hills. Found an A road and just cracked on. Nice and easy, flat and no real challenges. Roads quite busy, very popular with motorcylists, lots of american style diners dotted around with loads of motorbikes outside. Head down and Zagreb bound. Although quite busy, still plenty too look at in terms of hills and mountains, weather is amazing, not too urban.
Appoarching Zagreb feeling incredible, but a bit sad that’s it’s over…probably more than a bit. First thing I do is find the coach station. I’ve been in situations before where I have been on cycling trips, bought coach and train tickets and they haven’t let me on with my bike. Having waited hours for the ride, then having to wait more hours for the next one. So this was my biggest priority. The guys were telling me, it shouldn’t be a problem as long as you take a quite bus. I buy a ticket, they let me put my bike on early as the coach is already parked up. Got a couple of hours before it’s time to leave. Head to the bar near the coach station, very busy city, I imagine I’m not in the nicest of areas. Have a beer (or one…or two…or free). Strange feeling, solemn but happy and content.
Board the coach around 4pm. 14 hour coach ride, in and out of sleep, quite cold bus. Arrive at Dubrovnik about 6am by the docks soaking in all the scenary and eagerly anticipating relaxing times.
